Community Corner

The New Jersey Breakfast: Taylor Ham, Egg and Cheese

A search for a New Jersey specialty found in Park Slope.

Sometimes the best breakfast does not include words like “organic,” “homemade,” or “farm fresh.”

Sometimes, in order to defibrillate yourself back to life from a tough weekend of late nights and partying, a cylindrical brick of minced and salted pork with the words “Heat ‘N Eat” printed on its off-white, cotton packaging, is just what you need on a Sunday afternoon.

If you are from New Jersey, or ever woke up and ate breakfast in the Garden State because you have a husband, wife, significant other, aunt or uncle, or just a good old friend from NJ, you might have tasted the delicious, salted pork product known as “Taylor Ham” or “Pork Roll.”

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The name spawns a divisive debate: North Jersey refers to it as “Taylor Ham” and South Jersey strictly calls it “Pork Roll.” But whatever the moniker, it is smoky, savory, thick and tasty. (It should be noted that this reporter was born in bred in northern New Jersey.)

Taylor Ham was first made in the capital, Trenton, and was produced by a man named John Taylor in 1856.

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Originally marketed as "Taylor's Prepared Ham" until the Pure Food and Drug Act of 1906 forced a name change because it does not meet the legal definition of ham due to its lack of protein content (and, fine, lack of nutritional value), the name "Pork Roll" was conceived.

It has a consistency to that of SPAM, but is overpowered by its strong similarity to Canadian bacon. Cooking it is easy: cut think slices, about half an inch wide (the thicker the better to ensure it cooks evenly, for if its too thin the edges will curl up) and place on a hot skillet until the bottom browns. Then, flip it. It goes well with eggs any style. When ready, put the meat, eggs and cheese between a a long or hard roll, or bagel.   

Today, I made scrambled eggs with American cheese. The cheese gives the eggs a certain juiciness and tastiness that sticks to your ribs, sticks to your heart. I toasted an English Muffin and made a sandwich, doctored with Goya hot sauce.

This is a true breakfast of champions: The New Jersey Breakfast.

It is hard to find Taylor Ham in New York. Typically it is found in New Jersey or the Philadelphia area of Pennsylvania. I have been on a six-year search for my beloved. Every Sunday, since 2005, I ask whatever bagel spot, bodega, restaurant, diner and deli I find myself in if they have the scrumptious pork brick, to no avail.

My search, finally, has come to an end. There is one place, at least I know of, in Park Slope that serves up the good stuff: , on Seventh Avenue between Carroll and President streets.

One day, while I was waiting for an everything bagel and cream cheese, I glanced at small shop's chalkboard. In the upper left-hand corner was a little rainbow under the words: We Have Taylor Ham Today!

I immediately ordered a Taylor Ham, egg and cheese. I am a very happy Jersey Boy.

 

 

My fellow New Jersey transplants: if you know another place that sells Taylor Ham (or, fine, Pork Roll), please, E-mail me at wry201@gmail.com. 


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