All in the Famiglia

There is a time and place for crystal and china, for grand celebratory dinners, exotic ingredients and thrilling molecular gastronomy. But most of us, given the choice between fine dining or a casual repast at the end of a long day, prefer to satiate our appetites somewhere less pretentious and more cozy.

We yearn for somewhere devoid of attitude and affordable to eat at regularly—a real neighborhood joint where, with all due respect to Cheers, everybody knows your name. Recently opened on Eighth Avenue at the corner of Prospect aims to be just that type of place.

And, so far, they are hitting the mark. Opened just two months after closing their previous restaurant, Sette, on Seventh Avenue and Third Street, the owners of Giovanni's are comitted to creating an atmosphere reminiscent of being at home—but with way better Italian comfort food.

Like your Park Slope apartment, the restaurant is tight on space. So expect it to be crowded. Bodies regularly clog the entrance area waiting for the hostess (who is also your waitress) to call their names.

But it's the only way: Giovanni's doesn't take reservations for small parties; you know the drill. You can order a drink while you wait, but on most nights the small marble bar's four stools will be completely occupied. So be prepared to stand in the wings until seats become available.

Once you've plopped down, however, these slight discomforts are quickly forgotten.

Cozy, candle-lit tables are covered with sheaths of craft paper to charmingly absorb wine stains or children's scribbles. Vintage, black and white family photographs line the Venetian-plastered walls. The open kitchen ensures everything smells deliciously aromatic.

The atmosphere is convivial, though closely spaced tables offer little protection against noisy neighbors. Run with it and ask them what they are having for dinner. More than likely, you will be offered a bite to try for yourself. That's the type of crowd that comes to Giovanni's: Everyone is treated like family and they pay it forward.

You'll begin with some bread—a basket of thick-cut squishy Italian from Sal and Jerry’s in Bensonhurst. But don't get too full. The Southern Italian menu is composed of recipes from owner Giovanni Tafuri's family recipe box, paying tribute to his mother's Calabrian ancestry and his father’s Neopolitan roots.

It's worth exploring. “Nonna’s Famous Meatballs”  and veal saltimbocca are early standouts. An arugula salad with lemon vinaigrette and shaved Parmesan, provides a bright contrast for rich, dense eggplant Parmesan.

And trying any of the house-made tagliatelle dishes is a must. One recent special paired the noodles with expertly cooked calamari, fresh shrimp, mussels and a lightly spicy red sauce that left my dining companion wiping her plate clean and rubbing her belly.

"Let's come here again next week," she said. And we will.

Giovanni's Brooklyn Eats, 1657 Eighth Avenue at the corner of Prospect Avenue; 718-788-8001. Sunday to Thursday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Friday to Saturday 11 a.m. to 12 a.m. Price range: Appetizers, $7 to $9; fresh pasta dishes, $11 to $12; entrées $11 to $13. Reservations: Only for parties of 6 or more. Credit cards: All major cards.